For a couple of generations one family ran cattle on a very wild, mountainous area of southern Mendocino near the Sonoma county line. This gorgeous “untamed” area essentially was populated by coastal cedars, majestic pines and firs and a few black bears. It was not uncommon to stumble across a secret patch of Cannabis on occasion.
At the higher elevations of well over 2,000 feet, there were a few flat top areas that seemed suitable for grapes. One family member elected to start a small 30-acre vineyard. After struggling to lay out the perfect plan in a rugged area not exactly close to the local farm supply store, the family retained vineyard industry veteran Martin Mochizuki to lead the charge, finish the vineyard development, and start the processing of growing the best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Mendocino County. It was quite a challenge because of terrain, long distances, and unfamiliarity to the region by growers and winemakers in the California wine business. A marketing plan was also in order.
After a very tiny initial harvest in 2005, the vineyard yielded a few tons in 2006, and then a reasonable sized crop in 2007 of about 2 tons per acre, or about 100 cases per acre. Martin sought to pull several high-end, cult winemakers into the program to each buy a few tons. Most winemakers that were interested in the far-away and magical project were known for Pinot Noir. We were the exception. I was looking for something special and unique that would challenge our traditional Bordeaux-winemaking style plus I just wanted to experiment more with Pinot Noir.
The vintage year 2007 was crazy at Manchester Ridge Vineyard because every weather challenge known to viticultural man descended upon this area. One day the fog rolled up and over the ridge from the Pacific Ocean below and dropped temperatures 40 degrees. The next day, strong blustery winds pounded the vineyard, compounding the impact of hot temperatures and intense sunshine. It was a good environment for Black Bear, but not really a time-tested climate for ultra-premium grape production…or so we thought. In 2007 we picked at a high sugar and every single cluster was sorted; every berry inspected. The fruit looked beat up. The result, however, was that the wine produced was magical, like the terrain and climate. The varietal Pinot intensity was profound, and the perfume was clearly Burgundian, but with the special spice built in we have now term “the Manchester moment”. This area and terroir is clearly unique in California, and the wine is clearly unique in its aroma and flavor profile in the fraternity of Pinot Noir.
The vineyard will never produce more that 2 ½ tons per acre. Conditions are extremely harsh and challenging, but this could be why the wait is worth it. to produce impactful, unique, and courageous wines of solid pedigree. Every detail of winemaking technique was carefully orchestrated to insure that the 07’ Pinot Noir would be given every chance to excel, including extending cold berry maceration in the tank for three days, leaving each berry intact and uncrushed. Yeast was carefully selected, and gentle punchdowns of the wine by hand were the only consideration. With barrel aging, only the best French oak was used…but not too much; otherwise the induction of woody vanilla tones would overwhelm the delicacy and berry nuances of the wine. After only 8 months in the barrel, contrasted with 30 months for our Tom Eddy Cabernet wines, the Manchester Ridge Pinot Noir was bottled.
Everyone has heard the expression, that “..good things come in small packages”. Here we say that the Manchester Pinot Noir comes in “limited supply”, as only 59 cases were produced. That means only our ‘FOB’ best friends and family will every have a chance to drink this wine. A real collector’s item from a very special vineyard. Cheers, Tom
Aerial view of Manchester Ridge Vineyard in Mendocino County, CA
